In this post I will go through all the things that you need to know before getting your young bunny, also known as a kit!

• Birthing
• Nutrition during the first few weeks
• Weaning
• Food
• Hay
• Pellets
• Vegetables
• Environment
• De-sexing your bunny
• Litter training
• Handling
• Health

Birthing

The mothers gestation period is anywhere from 29-35 days and when the mother (doe) gives birth, they will make a nest by gathering soft things like hay as well as plucking out their own fur. The doe will usually give birth at night and when first born, the kits will be blind, deaf and hairless with their eyes and ears sealed shut. They develop quickly in the safety of their nest.

Nutrition during the first few weeks

The mother will nurse their bunnies only once per day, usually at dusk or dawn, the feeding session only lasts around 20 minutes but the kits can consume up to 20% of their body weight within this time. The mothers milk is very nourishing.

Weaning

Weaning is when a bunny stops consuming their mothers milk and begins to get their nourishment from solid foods. The weaning period should usually occur between 4 to 6 weeks of age. The bunny should be fully weaned and can be separated from the mother by 8 weeks.

These are the three points at which you knows your kits are ready to be weaned;

• They become more active and mobile
• They begin to eat hay and other solid meals offered to them
• They begin to clean themselves without the mothers help

When all of these things happen is when the kit can start to be separated fully from the mother and given a fully solid diet. It is key to note that this process should not be rushed. Below is the food that the bunny should be weaned onto.

Food

Your kit will have a different diet than an adult bunny as young bunnies need more fibre, protein and calcium to help them grow.

A young bunnies’ diet should consist of;

Hay

Hay is the most important element of a rabbits diet, whether young or old they need unlimited hay at all times. Young bunnies generally eat alfalfa hay up until around six months of age as alfalfa is high in fibre, calcium and protein which all serve different purposes in helping your bunny grow and develop.

Pellets

A kit should be given more pellets than an adult rabbit as they contain a lot of protein which supports a young buns growth but can cause obesity in adult rabbits when overfed. Some people opt to give their young rabbits unlimited pellets, I personally started them off with about 1/8 – 1/4 cup (2-4 tbsp) of pellets per day, split into two separate meals. You have to make sure that the pellets you are giving your bunny are correct for their age and preferably alfalfa based for the first six months of their life.

Vegetables

Vegetables should be introduced to your bunny at about 12 weeks of age, they should be introduced very slowly and the bunnies should be monitored to make sure that they have no negative reactions to them. The vegetables that you should be feeding your bunnies should be leafy greens or herbs, nothing with excess starch or sugar as this can harm the digestive system. For a full list of safe vegetables check my diet 101 page.

Environment

Young bunnies should not be taken away from their mothers before 8 weeks as this can be really dangerous, but after that 8 weeks, they can be moved. Their environment should be at least 3x2x1m to ensure that they can run and play. It is a misconception that younger bunnies do not need as much room as older bunnies but in fact, young bunnies need just as much room as they need to be able to run and exert natural behaviours. They should have unlimited hay preferably in a litter box so you can begin litter training. Hidey houses are great and these present your bunny with a dark space where they can feel safe and comfortable, a water bowl, some enrichment and chew toys as well as soft flooring so as not to hurt your bunnies hocks (feet). To hear more about this, go to my page on free roaming.

De-sexing your bunny

Male bunnies can become sexually mature at around 3-4 months whereas females usually mature between 5-6 months although, smaller breeds often mature quicker sometimes as early as 3 months. For larger breeds it can take them up to 9 months to mature.

It is important to separate any female and male rabbits before the age of sexual maturity to ensure that no unwanted pregnancies occur.

Male rabbits can get neutered (de-sexed) from around 4 months of age, it is important to confer with your vet prior as some bunnies mature later and therefor will have to wait until they are fully matured to have their operation.

Female rabbits can get spayed (de-sexed) from usually around 5-6 months as it is a more invasive surgery with higher risk. It is still very important to get your female rabbit spayed as otherwise they are at very high risk of getting a reproductive cancer or a tumour by the age of 5-6 which can be deathly.

It is important to note that a neutered male cannot immediately after surgery be put back with a female as pregnancy can still occur within 6 weeks after being neutered.

Litter training

Bunnies can be litter trained. This means that you can train your rabbit to go to the toilet in the same spot. The way to do this is as follows;

Purchase a nice big litter box, i always recommend a metal litter box to ensure that there is no lingering odours.

Place your hay, either in the base of the box or in a bag/feeder hanging above the litter box as bunnies like to eat where they do their business.

Notice where they are going to the toilet most frequently and place the litter box in that area.

Place the litter box in a corner as rabbits prefer corners.

If they go outside the litter box, either sweep or wipe it up then place the droppings or soiled tissue into their litter box to show them that that is where they are supposed to be going. Rabbits are lead by scent and will go where they have been before usually.

Ensure you are cleaning the litter box out at least twice a week, some bunnies may need it more depending on their size and the size of the litter box.

Finally, it is important to note that some bunnies will take longer to learn and it will not be a complete fix until they are spayed or neutered. This is because rabbits will always try to mark their territory until they are de-sexed.

Handling

Whilst your bun is still young, they need to become accustomed to people and being handled. The way to do this is to sit with them and give them attention as well as occasionally picking them up to get them used to people. This is very necessary as in the future you will need to be able to pick them up to for example, take them to the vets and you don’t want them to be overly scared.

If your bunny is on not very trusting from early on and won’t let you pet them, you should try hand-feeding, where you feed them treats or vegetables out of your hand to get them to trust you.

Health

Health checks are very important whilst your bunny is still young and you should ensure that by around 5-7 weeks of age, your bunny has had their first vaccinations and then yearly boosters after that.

You will also need to perform weekly health checks on your bunnies, this means checking their;

• Eyes – Check for any discharge or cloudiness
• Nose – check for any mucus or discharge
• Coat – check for dandruff, fleas, parasites and any scurf
• Teeth – check for signs of problems or overgrowth
• Ears – check for any issues or wax buildup
• Skin – check for any urine staining or faeces stuck on the rear end

You should also take your bunnies to see a veterinary specialist at least once a year. Regular weigh-ins are recommended to spot any significant loss or gain in weight.